Materials
Acetate
Produced using the dry-spin process, the cellulose fibres have reduced moisture absorption and are more sensitive to heat than viscose. Uses include material for dresses, blouses and linings with a silky appearance.
Bamboo
Bamboo fibre is a kind of regenerated cellulose fibre, which is produced from raw materials of bamboo pulp using our unique patented technology. First, bamboo pulp is refined from bamboo through a process of hydrolysis-alkalisation and multi-phase bleaching. We then process the bamboo pulp into bamboo fibre. Repeated tests have proved that it has strong durability, stability and tenacity. And the thinness and degree of whiteness of bamboo fibre are similar to classic viscose.
Cellulose Synthetic Fibres
A collective term for synthetically produced fibres from natural raw materials, that is to say cellulose — the skeleton substance of all plants. Cellulose synthetic fibres which were discovered in the 1920s, also known as Reyon/Rayon and artificial silk, initiated the production of soft, relatively transparent stockings suitable for the fashions of that period. Skirt hems became shorter and shorter and brought more of a woman's legs into view. Cellulose is found in wood and straw and is in an almost pure state in cotton. It is extracted as a white substance and then processed to make different types of fibre, such as viscose, Modal, Cupro-fibre and acetate.
Cotton
We have known about cotton for almost 8,000 years now. The fibres are extracted from the seeds of the cotton plant. Their value depends on the length of the staple (20 to 55 mm) and the staple uniformity. Cotton is considered to be friendly to the skin due to its breathability and ability to absorb moisture. It is resistant to light, washable, impervious to weather, tear-resistant and doesn’t shrink. White cotton can be boiled. The very refined and high value varieties, such as Karnak and Mako from Egypt, are the most popular for making stockings. As cotton comes from natural raw materials, it is completely non-elastic. Cotton is often combined with Thanelast, which provides the advantage of being friendly to the skin and this makes for an excellent fit. Cotton can be treated to increase its quality:
- Mercerising: the cotton fibre is flattened under tension in a saline solution and this technique imparts a high gloss effect.
- Combing: this means the removal of dirt particles, knots and short fibres from long stapled cotton thread to achieve a fine, smooth quality
- Super-combing is the highest stage of combed cotton: super-soft, with an even quality.
- Gassed cotton yarn is smoothed by singeing any yarn ends that protrude.
Cupro-fibres
A cellulose fibre similar to viscose but a little suppler to the touch, which is therefore more often used for ladies' underwear and velvet.
Elastane
This is elastic polyurethane, which gives it “rubber-band” qualities. It is used in combination with another yarn, e.g. polyamide. The yarn can be extended from 3 to 7 times its original length without breaking, then returns to its original length. Elastic and easy to keep clean, resistant to seawater and light, Thanelast can be used for light stockings, corsets and bodices, swimwear, elastic sport wear and collars, cuffs and waistbands. The most common trade names for Thanelast are Lycra (from Du Pont) and Dorlastan (from Bayer).
Fibres
Also known as filament yarn. This is the material from which the yarn is spun before being knitted into textiles. There are three basic groups: synthetic fibres, cellulose synthetic fibres and natural fibres.
Linen
Natural fibres made of flax, which are characterized by a permanent gloss, smooth, cool touch, high absorbency and high resistance to water. Uses for linen, which creases easily and can be ironed with a hot iron, are, for example, tableware, bed linens and towels.
Lycra
This is a trade name for Thanelast from Du Pont. It is never used on its own but is spun, for example, with nylon. Lycra has been used since the ‘60s, first as a backing material and then to make fashionable, light stockings.
- Products with Lycra fit better and last longer because the main reasons why conventional stockings would tear were, first, their lack of elasticity when under strain and, second, the loose material that would catch on a rough surface and was therefore liable to ladder.
- As Lycra ensures elasticity the producers of refined stockings can make use of the whole range of yarns, from smooth nylon to micro-fibres. If Lycra is spun with a staple fibre, e.g. cotton, wool or silk it is called a core-spun material: the Thanelast core becomes invisible.
- Stockings containing Lycra finally established themselves as market leaders in the ‘90s, e.g. Bellinda Fascination. Lycra 3D
Developed during the ‘90s: a Lycra yarn twined with nylon is knitted in every row. A completely smooth and even appearance of the stitches and a better fit are possible as a result.
Microfibres
Synthetic fibres. The addition of the prefix “micro” to the packaging is not subject to any regulations. The most common explanation is that they are fibres with a thickness of less than 1 dtex, which can hardly be seen with the naked eye. The spinning material, which is mostly nylon, is forced through superfine nozzles on the spinneret. In this way the yarn can be produced from 100 extremely thin fibres (capillary tubes). For that reason, products made from micro-fibres can achieve a level of breathability comparable to natural fibres. For example, cotton as well as micro-fibres are used in Bellinda pants. Further advantages are a super soft feel to the touch, an even-spun appearance and an ultra-light feeling during wear.
Modal
A cellulose fibre similar to viscose but with improved moisture absorption. Modal is used, for example for men's shirts and for bed linens.
Natural fibres
Natural plant fibres or those of animal origin. The yarn is produced from short stapled and long stapled fibres, which are spun by the twisting or turning method. Natural fibres are cotton, linen, wool, and silk.
Nylon
The trade name for the product produced by Du Pont in 1938 — Polyamide. It revolutionized leg apparel: nylons became the collective name for satin sheers and were sold under the slogan “As hard as steel, but as transparent as a spider’s web”. Nylon is produced in various yarn strengths (den/dtex) and is now the basic raw material for many modern stocking merchandise, for example, Satin Sheers and Lycra 3D.
Polyacryl/Acryl
A synthetic fibre with a low density which can easily be puffed out. It has a woolly texture, does not easily turn to felt, does not shrink and is easy to wash. It is sensitive to high temperatures but is, as a rule easy to iron. It is used, for example, in Knit and Plushwear: finishing fabrics, blankets, upholstery materials and carpets.
Polyamide
Synthetic fibres with a high resistance to tear and high abrasion resistance, good colour durability and very easy workability, known under its trade names as Nylon and Perlon. They are very durable and easy to wash. Due to their relatively low melting point, they don’t stand up well to high temperatures. Uses are, for example, light stockings, women's underwear, corsets and bodices, and swimwear.
Polyester
Synthetic fibres which can stand higher temperatures, such as Polyacryl/Acryl, are also easy to keep clean. They are characterized by their stability of shape, high resistance to creasing and durability. Uses are, for example for women's and men's wear, curtains, ties, and filler for duvets.
Satin Sheers
Developed in the ‘80s: a Lycra thread spun alternately with a smooth, glossy nylon thread. The result is a high gloss, luxurious material, e.g. Bellinda Hold-Ups.
Silk
This natural fibre spun from the cocoons of the silkworm is the finest raw textile material: a long, very thin fibre which forms the cocoon. Two types are farmed: raw silk and mulberry silk from the mulberry silkworm (butterfly). About 1,200 metres of silk thread can be unwound from the middle part of the cocoon without breaking. The fibres are boiled and de-gummed in order to make the thread soft and to enable it to be dyed. Characteristics: glossy, light, very soft, almost non-wrinkling, cool in summer, warm in winter. Silk is used mainly with cotton or wool in the production of stockings.
Stretch yarn
A special stocking yarn that curls less (texturing) and is called crepe yarn. Products made from stretch yarn are less cross-elastic but, as opposed to conventional crepe articles, a clearer definition of the stitches is possible.
Synthetic fibres
Synthetic fibres are produced mainly from mineral oil. To produce the yarn, the substance to be spun is forced through many holes in a spinneret. The same number of filaments are produced as there are spinnerets (melt spinning process). Examples of synthetic fibres are Polyacryl/Acryl, Polyester, Polyamide and Thanelast.
Tactel
A registered trade mark from Du Pont for an entire range of different yarns for clothing based on polyamide. Many different fashionable variations are possible as a result of the gloss and the especially fine filaments. Tactel is easy to keep clean and has a high level of breathability so that warmth and moisture regulation are guaranteed.
Twine
When two or more threads are twisted together, this new thread is called twine. Twine has a higher tensile strength and is used wherever higher stability and durability are required.
Viscose
Produced using the wet-spin process, cellulose fibre has good moisture absorption properties. Articles of clothing made from viscose are skin-friendly and have the appearance of cotton or wool, and a soft feel. Uses include, for example, fabrics for children's clothing, blouse materials, soft furnishings, lining materials, velvet and soft materials.
Wool
Natural fibres from animal skin: warming, good absorption of moisture, dimensionally stable, with a non-crease finish. These positive characteristics which increase its use value are barely impacted when it is mixed with other fibres. The following types of new wool are most frequently used (wool shorn from living animals): Merino – Merino sheep; Angora – rabbit; Cashmere – mountain goat and Alpaca – llama.
